Day 5 - Namche to Tengboche

March 31st.

Today included a rigorous hike from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche. We began the day with a steep hike up, out of town as it glistened with a light layer of fresh snow, and up to a traverse high above the Phunki river. We rounded a corner to be taken back by a wide view of the high Everest range and then marched on toward Ama Dablam. Ama is in my humble opinion, the most gorgeous high peak of the journey. It reminds me of the Eiger, with it's steep hard angles towering high above it's sisters.

In the morning we descended deep into the gorge all the way down to the river. I had to console myself with the truth that we were still drawing nearer to the mountain laterally, as we lost altitude for two hours, only to have to make it up again after noon. Such is the life of a trekker in the Himilayas. There are only two directions to hike; up or down.

Christina and Loyd decided to head back to Namche to wait out the rest of the trip at this point. Christina's knees were causing her a lot of problems. We were mostly prepared for this probability.

After partaking of some nice Dal Bhat for lunch (rice and lentils) we slogged up a steep grade gaining 2,000 feet in two hours up to Tengboche (12,600 feet). When we reached the village at the top we hiked through a gate and into a relatively flat grassland perched between two grand peaks. A very long time ago Bhudist munks established a monestary here in this gorgeous hill surrounded by noble mountains. Today the winds are strong and very cold up here. We are finally able to make use of the thick layers of insulation we (actually our porter friends) have schlepped up the slopes. They have seemed like useless weight down in the warmer temperatures (50ish) down below. Tonight should be a good test of my 15 degree sleeping bag.

It was mostly cloudy when we arrived, but the clouds broke briefly over Everest as the sun set providing us with few minutes with an unobstructed view. An amazing sight.

I took a partial bucket shower. At least my arms and legs are clean for the moment. A nice reprieve from the layers of dust that collect on us as we hike along. I found a blue bucket with a spicket. The water seemed relatively clean. Clean enough for a rinse anyway. Felt a bit better.

I a bit worried about my sunburned face. I have applied 30spf every morning, but the bright sun seems to slowly burn through it. The thin air, and the second exposure of light reflecting off the light brown rocks below as we hike, that seems to get you like a 1-2 punch.